![]() Now some people also would reduce it on the face opposite the adjacent face of the timber. Tip (when inspecting old square rule barns, this is how you tell which side of the timber is the reference face). This tells us how thick the tenon should be and where it should be on the sill and on the end of the door post.Īnother general frame rule is "all timbers are reduced to the next 1/2" in size." What this rule means is if your post is 6x8 then the join on the top has to be reduced to 7 1/2" as the reduction is always on the side opposite the reference face. One such rule on this standard garden shed is that all joints are laid out 2" off the reference face and then 2" thick. When a frame is designed the designer makes up a "general frame rule" and/or rules that apply to each joint (most of the time, there are exceptions to every rule). At least the mortise is cut 2" deep and the tenon is cut back from 2" to 1 7/8" so that it won't bottom out when everything shrinks when everything drys out. Ok, traditionally the stub tenon on the bottom of a post is only 2" deep into the sill. Good luck with your project, and planning it out right, is the first step in construction. Excess bolt can be cut off with a hack saw blade in a sawzall. Plan on bolts long enough to go into the concrete the distance the manufacturer recommends and up through the long sill and use large washers and nuts to hold the long sill down. Houses/building can be blown away.īoring a small hole and then using an anchor bolt that self expands could be an easy method that will secure your sills to the existing concrete. I would secure it with at lease a couple, or three, bolts through the long sills into the concrete. If you're doing this project with a building permit, I'll assume that your building inspector will want some type of anchorage. So I can't comment on your needs for securing the frame to your concrete. Your profile doesn't say where you're from. Oh, and BTW, if there are any other Inventor users out there who are interested, I found an IPT template for wood materials that I downloaded from the AI discussion group, and I'll try to post a link to it (if I can find it again).Īlthough in my area we don't have to worry about earthquakes, most frames are secured to the foundations somehow. I don't know how to use SU, and I use Inventor every day so it's easier for me. ![]() It looks like you are using Sketchup? I'm in the process of designing my frame using Autodesk Inventor. Sobon says his design is OK for a post height up to around 14'? At least I think that's what I read - I have to go back and read that part again. I was thinking of raising the post height to accommodate a higher cross beam on the bents as well, as I also thought the braces are a bit too low for my liking. I'm also going to try & use locust for the sills, at least if I can get fairly straight pieces out of the logs I have (and will have) at my disposal. That's a really good point about a barrier between the sills and the concrete. Thanks Jim! Those are excellent points to consider, and I appreciate the advice. If you need detailed drawings of this modification or you'd like more help, drop me a private email and we can discuss it further. Although without the floor system you're already gaining some height. If you considering this frame design you might move the tie beam up some to give you more room downstairs. Or putting them from the tie up to the post above the tie, so that you'd have some bracing on this end.Īlso, we've built this standard frame here, and it's seems that the tie beams are just a little low for me. You might consider just not putting these in. I also moved the standard brace back, making it very short. And a standard pegged 4" tenon on the top. Then each door post has a two inch stub tenon on the bottom to hold it in place in the short cross sill. The door posts are 4x5's with the five going inward. What I'd do is create two small or short cross sill ends and insert them into the standard mortise pocket in the long sill and then use these for holding the door posts in place. Here is a standard 12'x16' frame with one gable end modified for a centered 8' wide doorway with two door posts on the sides.
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